It's attached to the hood with 3M #80 spray adhesive. Using the plastic push pins alone is not recommended because the liner will sag in areas not held in by the tabs. The holes are punched on the liner and serve two purposes: 1) to ensure as you install the liner that you are installing the liner correctly. The holes line up with the holes in the underhood for the plastic pins indicating it's correctly aligned. 2) Once the liner is installed you can insert the plastic pins to complete the "stock look". The liner will "grab" the pins and they'll seat well.
No, #80 is most closely formulated for the type of material my liners are made of, plus its heat rated to 200 degrees. Other adhesive numbers such as 75, 77, and 90 are made for other chemical materials and have lower heat ratings. Someone used 77 on their liner and it came unglued - the result was a liner laying on top of the engine. Luckily nothing happened to the liner or the engine, and the result was a quick sanding of the underhood with a 3M sanding sponge to remove the now-dried 77 adhesives, and a re-installation using the correct #80. The owner reported much better results! If you can't locate 3M #80 at all, then the suggestion is to use a spray or even a liquid adhesive that can be brushed on, such as contact cement, as long as it's made for rubber/vinyl, and is heat rated for 180 to 200+ degrees. The liner is neither rubber nor vinyl, and it does have components of neoprene.
Full refunds of the Hoodliner and Decal are permitted within 14 days of Hoodliner delivery. (Note: If the Hoodliner or Decal have already been shipped the refund will be just for the Hoodliner and Decal, not the shipping.)
If you would like a refund you are responsible for the return shipping cost and return the Hoodliner in the original box. Once Hoodliner and Decal are received and there is no damage to the product your refund will be issued.
The list on the inventory is what I have. Those are the only templates I have. If you really would like a hoodliner I would need you to do the following. Contact me first about the situation via email/ phone call/ text message/ WhatsApp, and then take the original hoodliner you have on your car (or if its super deteriorated, go to a junk yard and find the exact same car and find that hoodliner in a good condition) and buy a shower curtain from the dollar tree and trace it out exactly. The same size, same dimensions, and any holes for the pegs/ indentations there may be on the liner. I would need to know all of the specifics of the car so that you could help me help other interested buyers if they want the same kind of liner!
Although my liners are mainly for stock hoods, I have made liners for aftermarket hoods before. What I would need to know is what size you need covered and I could send you a section of the liner material in those dimensions, width x height. You would then need to trim-to-fit using an X-Acto knife or a utility knife, rounding out the corners, making any curves, and any openings for airflow. A heat-resistant decal would come with the liner section as well. Simply let me know how much you need, and I can send an invoice your way to the e-mail address you specify. You would of course still need to attach it to your underhood with the 3M #80 spray adhesive.
Yes, our material is heat-rated to over 225 degrees Fahrenheit, 108 degrees Celsius. The vinyl decal is heat resistant as well and won't be affected. In fact, I know of two instances where engine heater hoses burst and sprayed hot coolant/anti-freeze onto the liner and decal. Both were totally UNSCATHED, and nothing happened! The liners were cleaned off leaving no stains, and no change in performance. Remember that this liner doesn't absorb any underhood fluids or lubricants.
My hoodliner is INFINITELY better than the stock pressed fiberglass. My hoodliner is fire retardant, insulates against heat and sound, resistant to oil, chemicals, water and mildew and will not rot. It's washable and can come with a colorful decal. The original liner, made from fiberglass latex foam, is not fire retardant, and somewhat insulates against heat and sound. The original liner is not resistant to oil, chemicals, water and mildew and it will get very dirty, greasy, will rot and come apart. My liner gives a better appearance than the stock foam hoodliner. On top of all that, let's say you can locate an NOS original liner. Sure, you can install that NOS original without removing the hood - just pop the pins in and you're done in five minutes or so. BUT, give it time and that NOS original will get dirty again just like the first one did because that original pressed fiberglass material is a magnet for dirt, grease, etc., and it will fall apart just like your first one did. Mine won't. Now, compare the price between mine and that NOS original - and that's IF you can find that NOS original. You will spend more on that NOS original than mine. And that NOS will fail again, and you lost that money! For instance, the price of an NOS original liner for the Buick Grand National is astronomical! Check the 'Bay and see for yourself! I've seen some over $350, plus $150 or more in oversized shipping! Why? That's ridiculous and insane! My liners make better sense!